Mountaineering

Makalu Expedition

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Makalu Expedition

Of Nepal's eight mountains above 8000 m, Mt. Makalu is Nepal's fourth highest and world’s fifth highest peak at 8,463m (27,758 ft). Mount Makalu lies just 19 km southeast of the giant Mt. Everest on the border of Nepal and China in the eastern Himalayan range. The height of this mountain itself is remarkable, but it's flawless pyramid form with four straight ridges make it more stunning and majestic. The mountain's name is taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala which means big black and is by the name of one of most powerful Hinduism's gods-Shiva. In the local dialect, the mountain has another name Kumba Karna which means the giant. Makalu has proven to be a difficult climb, as only five of his first 16 attempts have been successful. It was in 1955, that the French team led expedition first scaled the peak of Mt. Makalu. Makalu base camp consists of a natural wonder-The Barun Valley. With breathtaking elevated waterfalls crashing within the deep gorges, this valley facilitates varied species of flora and fauna. You can also witness rich cultures of ethnic groups such as Sherpa and Kirat. The base camp is usually placed at around 5,600 m, followed by four camps before climbing to the top. The first camp is 6,100 m, the second camp is 6,600 m, the third camp is 7,200 m and the final camp is 7,600 m. Mt. Makalu Expedition is full of challenges and hazards. Therefore, Wongchhu Peak Promotion provides an experienced team who will help all expedition members to climb Mount Makalu.

Overview

Trip Code WPP-001-MXP
Destination Nepal
Altitude 8463m
Season Spring and Autumn
Difficulty Hard
Accomodation Hotel, Tea House & Tent
Duration 50 Days

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive at Kathmandu

Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, our company representative will meet and welcome you to Nepal and then you'll be transferred to your confirmed hotel. Once you finish the check-in procedure, you can rest & relax at the hotel. Later you will be accompained by the office staff for a short tour of Thamel to make you familiar with some good restaurants, ATMs, money changer and other necessary places you might need during your stay in Thamel.

Day 2: A full day sightseeing tour of Kathmandu valley, the capital city

The very next morning, after breakfast you will leave for a full day sightseeing tour around Kathmandu valley. You can visit the sacred Pashupatinath Temple and Swyambhunath, very ancient and essentially enlisted in UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The biggest Buddhist Stupa at Boudhanath and the fine arts and historical architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square reflecting the ancient Nepalese culture which is the highlights of our guided tour. A visit to Patan City will enchant you with its famous fine arts and historical architecture. On return to your hotel, you will have time to explore the local area, have dinner and perhaps take a leisurely stroll through the famous streets.

Day 3: Preparation Day

We spend a day preparing the final documents, gears & equipment check and so on. You can go for final shopping if something is missed before leaving out for the mountain.

Day 4: Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (400 m/ 1,312 ft) and drive to Num (1,505 m/4,936 ft)

After breakfast, you will be taken to the domestic terminal in Kathmandu, depending on your flight time, for a 35-minute flight to Tumlingtar. It will take 4 hours to get to Num from Tumlingtar Airport by driving through Khandbari. It's an unpleasant drive because it's off-road, rocky, muddy, and rough. Overnight in Tea House.

Day 5: Trek from Num to Seduwa (1,530 m/5,018 ft)

The walk begins with a two-hour hard drop to the Arun River's side, and then, after crossing the suspension bridge, you begin a difficult ascent to Seduwa while passing through a bamboo forest and a few small teahouses. Overnight in Tent.

Day 6: Trek from Seduwa to Tashi Gaun (2,065 m/6,773 ft)

Continue on through the Arun valley past fields of small hamlets, bamboo and rhododendron forests, and rhododendron forests until you reach the Sherpa town of Tashigaon (2.180 m), which is the highest permanent habitation in the valley. Overnight in Tent.

Day 7: Trek from Tashi Gaun to Khongma (3,562 m/11,683 ft)

After leaving Tashigaon, you ascend through a thick forest and rhododendron trees that are in full bloom to the little mountain pasture of Kauma La (3562 m), which is at the base of the high passes leading to the Barun valley. Overnight in Tent.

Day 9: Acclimatization and Rest day in Khongma

You climb up to Khongma-La, which is at an elevation of 3,900 meters, today as part of the acclimatization process to help your body adjust to the altitude. Start climbing the stone steps through the rhododendron forest after breakfast at the hotel to get to the Khongma-La. Spend 15 to 20 minutes there, then take the same path back to the resort to have a cooked meal. The afternoon is yours to relax or go exploring. Tent overnight. Overnight in Tent.

Day 9: Trek from Khongma to Dobato (3,860m/12,664ft)

You enter the high alpine region with shrubs and pastures as you emerge from the steep forest. A picturesque backdrop to Makalu's enormous mountain mass is made up of several walls decorated with prayer stones and flags and icy, deep blue lakes. For the first time, we cross the double passes of Shipton La (4170 m) and Barun La (also known as Tutu La 4080 m). Over the heavily forested valley bottom of the Barun river valley, a steep slope leads you to the jungle clearings of Dobato (3860 m) or Mumbuk (3520 m). Overnight in Tent.

Day 10: Trek from Dobato to Yangle Kharka (3,690m/12,106ft)

A long walk across the Barun River is followed by a lovely descent through a rhododendron, pine, and shrubby forest before reaching the high pastures of Yangle Kharka (3690 m) on the other side by crossing a wooden bridge. Overnight in Tent.

Day 11: Trek from Yangle Kharka to Lamgmale (4,420m/14,501ft)

We leave the timberline behind us and set up camp on Langmale's high grassland, which is bordered by various spectacular peaks that are between six and seven thousand meters in height. Overnight in Tent.

Day 12 - 13: Trek from Lamgmale to Hillary Base Base camp / Makalu Base Camp

In the deserted field of Sherson (4650 m), you will pass today on your way to the ancient Makalu Basecamp, also known as Hillary Basecamp. This will allow you enough time for a quick afternoon stroll through the neighborhood with breathtaking views of Makalu's West Ridge. At the base camp, you'll stay for a few nights. Overnight in Tent.

Day 14: Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Makalu Advance Base Camp (5,300m/17,388ft)

The advanced basecamp is reached after a strenuous ascent (ABC). Finally, you cross the stream of ice and scree to the opposite side by following the glacier's side moraine. The path up the Chago Glacier's side valley is blocked by steep slopes covered in large rock slabs. A path through the scree can sometimes be difficult to see, so be cautious of rockfall and don't get lost! ABC is located at 5300 meters, on a little hill just outside the Chago Glacier's tongue. Overnight in Tent.

Day 15 42: Climbing Period [Base Camp – Makalu Summit (8,463 m/27,758 ft)– Base Camp]

First Round, a day of rest, and a Puja
Climb up to camp I (6100m)
Reach Camp II (6600 m) and then descend to Advance Base camp.
Base camp's day of rest
Next Rotation
Climb up to camp I (6100m)
Scale Camp II (6600m)
Reach camp III (7400), then descend to camp II (overnight)
Make your way to Base Camp
During the peak push, rest and get ready Pushing Up to Camp I (6100m)
Starting at 5 a.m., climb to camp II.
Go up Camp III (overnight) begin at 9:00 a.m.
Starting at 4 am, reaching Camp IV at 1 pm, taking 6 hours off, and Then beginning the summit ascent at 8 pm
Ascend to Camp IV after spending the night climbing and reaching The summit about 6-7 morning.Overnight in Tent.

Descending to Camp II
Descend to base camp
following the summit, base camp is packed up and cleared out.
Note: Please be aware that the activities described during the climbing period are only a preliminary schedule. Your climbing guide makes the real summit plans while you're at base camp. Due to the unpredictable weather in the Himalayas and your degree of fitness, the activities may alter. We suggest you to reserve a flexible flight and give yourself extra time in case you need it for the summit push.

Day 43: Cleaning up Base Camp

Overnight in Tent.

Day 44: Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Yangri Kharka (3,610 m/ 11,840 ft)

3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.

Day 45: Trek from Yangri Kharka to Khongma (3,562 m/11,683 ft)

3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.

Day 46: Trek from Khongma to Seduwa (1,530 m/5,018 ft)

3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Tent.

Day 47: Trek from Seduwa to Num and drive to Khandbari or Tumlingtar

3-4 hrs. trek. Overnight in Teahouse.

Day 48: Drive from Khandbari to Tumlingtar and Fly to Kathmandu

4-5 hrs. drive. 40 min. flight to Kathmandu. Overnight in Hotel.

Day 49: Leisure day in Kathmandu

Overnight in Hotel.

Day 50: Departure

Our coordinates at Wongchhu Peak Promotion will see you off at the Tribhuvan International airport as your board on a flight towards home. As you head home, you can plan your next adventure here in Nepal with the wonderful service of Wongchhu Peak Promotion.

Includes

  • Airport/Hotel transfer in Kathmandu,
  • All ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicle in Kathmandu,
  • Hotel in Kathmandu for 3 nights pre and 2 nights post on B/B plan on sharing post,
  • Full-day Kathmandu Heritage site sightseeing by private tourist vehicle,
  • Professional English-speaking tour guide during sightseeing,
  • City tour entrance fees of the heritage sites,
  • Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide during the trekking and climbing period,
  • All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; Kitchen tents, store tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced Base Camp and high camp,
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bars, etc.)
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base camp,
  • Food and accommodation during the trek in full board,
  • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner will be served at base camp,
  • All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during the expedition for both members and crews,
  • Daily weather Report service from Seattle based,
  • Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu,
  • Nepal government Royalty and fees,
  • One experienced, trained, government-licensed, climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client,
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition,
  • Group emergency equipment and medical supplies,
  • Medical consultation services at the base camp,
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, Kitchen boys,
  • Equipment allowance and wages for Government Liaison Officers,
  • Solar equipment for light and also for charging various electric devices,
  • 1 generator at base camp for computers and other electronic devices,
  • Headset radios for communication in the mountain,
  • Satellite Phones (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
  • Internet at base camp (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required,
  • Rope fixing costs,
  • The heater will be provided at the base camp for heating the dining room,
  • Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator will be provided,
  • Travel and rescue arrangements,
  • Ice fall usage Charge,
  • 5 bottles of 3LTR Poisk Oxygen for members,
  • Daily Dispatches on www.wppnepal.com,
  • Welcome and Farewell dinner with beverages.

Excludes

  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, or early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary,
  • If required to change from airplane to helicopter to/from Tumlingtar due to weather issues, the additional cost of the helicopter will be shared amongst clients,
  • Personal trekking and climbing gear Meals in Kathmandu (except breakfast and farewell dinner)
  • Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing season
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, shower, etc.)
  • Emergency Medical Evacuation & any medical costs.
  • Any other item not listed in the 'Price Includes' section

Equipments

Embarking on an Mt. Makalu expedition requires high-quality equipment to ensure safety and success. The harsh and unforgiving environment at such altitudes demands equipment that is both durable and reliable. Here are some essential pieces of equipment required for an 8000m expedition:

1.0 Travel Documents

  • Valid passport
  • Credit/Debit card
  • Passport size photo (6 pieces)
  • Insurance paper and contact address
  • Family contact number

2.0 Upper Body Wear

  • Expedition down jacket
  • Basecamp down jacket
  • Lightweight fleece top
  • Wind shirt
  • Gore-Tex jacket
  • Waterproof shell jacket
  • Base layers tops
  • Trekking cloths
  • Casual wear

3.0 Lower Body Wear

  • Thermal bottom base layer (2-3 pcs)
  • Fleece trousers (2-3 pcs)
  • Gore-Tex pants (1 pcs)
  • Mid-weight pants (1-2 pcs)
  • Lightweight quick dry trekking pants (2-3 pcs)
  • Gaiters for trekking boots
  • Down pant Underwear (4-6 pcs)

4.0 Headwear

  • Sun cap
  • Desert cap
  • Balaclava
  • Banadana or Buff
  • Fleece hat
  • Neoprene face mask
  • Neck gaiter
  • Sunglass
  • Ski goggles

5.0 Handwear

  • Thin fleece gloves (2 pairs)
  • Liner gloves (2 pairs)
  • Wind stopper/screen tap gloves (2 pairs)
  • Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
  • Summit gloves-8000m

6.0 Footwear

  • Socks (6 pairs)
  • Lightweight shoes/sandals
  • Trekking boots 8000m
  • mountaineering boots 6000m
  • mountaineering boots
  • Save gaiters
  • Down bivvy boots
  • Camp boots
  • Foot-wearing system

7.0 Sleeping Bags

  • Sleeping bag -20°c to -30°c for Base camp
  • Down Sleeping Bag -40°c for extreme comfort
  • Thermarests Mattress (Cell foam)
  • Down Matteres (Inflatable)
  • Sleeping bag Liner
  • Inflatable Pillow

8.0 Climbing Equipment

  • Power Bank
  • Pee Bottle
  • Altimeter watch
  • Pocket Knife
  • Walking Stick/Trekking Pole
  • Satellite Phone with credit
  • Battery
  • Headlight 500-700Lumens
  • Spare Snow Goggles
  • Tape Slings/240cm
  • Unlock Carabiner (2pcs)
  • Lock Carabiner (3pcs)
  • Climbing Helmet
  • Summit Down Suit – 8000m
  • Jumar / Ascender
  • Belay Devices / Figure of 8/ATC guide
  • Harness
  • Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
  • Crampons (fit with boot)/ Packing cover

9.0 Bag packs

  • Rucksacks 35 L -50 L
  • Duffle Bag 120 L – 150 L (2pcs)
  • Laundry / Garbage Bag (Large)
  • Water Proof Stuff Sacks / Dry Bag –small/medium / Large (3-4)pcs)

10.0 Sun stuff

  • Banana Boat/Nivea
  • Sun Cream (up to -50SPF)
  • Lip Guard - 30 to -50 (SPF)
  • Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)
  • Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection
  • ) Moisturizer / Lotion

11.0 Toiletries (Personal)

  • Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
  • Toothpaste
  • Toothbrush
  • Soap
  • Shampoo
  • Towel
  • Garbage Bag

12.0 Eating & Drinkings

  • 1 ltr. Water Bottle
  • 1/1.5ltr. Thermos Mug (Opt.)
  • Spoon / Fork (opt.)
  • Bowl (opt.)

13.0 Medical / First Aid

  • Brufen / Ibuprofens
  • Antibiotic
  • Diamox
  • Paracetamol
  • Handy Plaster
  • Crack Bandage
  • Tincture Iodine
  • Ondem
  • Cetirizine
  • Electrolyte
  • Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
  • Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
  • Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
  • Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
  • Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
  • Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
  • Menstrual Products

14.0 Miscellaneous

  • Nail cutter
  • Umbrella /Raincoat
  • Hot water bag
  • Tenacious Tape Repair Kits
  • Camera
  • GPS Tracker (Recommended)
  • Hand & Toe Warmer

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