Ama Dablam Climbing
Ama Dablam, known as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas," is a magnificent mountain rising to a height of 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) in the Khumbu region south of Mount Everest. Its unique pyramid-shaped summit and hanging glacier on the southwest ridge resemble the ornamental box called Dablam, which is sacred to the Sherpa people and gives the mountain its name. In 1961, Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ) successfully climbed Ama Dablam for the first time via the Southwest Ridge. The route provides a continuous and varied climb of increasing difficulty, with three high camps located at strategic points. The climb to Camp I is mild, followed by a challenging traverse along a narrow granite ridge to Camp II. Steep ice pitches and snow slopes make the path to Camp III even more challenging, requiring crossing a snow arete and bergschrund between ice cliffs. After reaching the summit and leveling it, the team descends to base camp. The best time to undertake the Ama Dablam Expedition is either from April to May before the monsoon or from September to October. If you are an experienced climber looking to join an adventure team to tackle one of the world's most incredible mountains, then the Ama Dablam Expedition is an excellent choice.
Overview
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive at Kathmandu
Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, our company representative will meet and welcome you to Nepal and then you'll be transferred to your confirmed hotel. Once you finish the check-in procedure, you can rest & relax at the hotel. Later you will be accompained by the office staff for a short tour of Thamel to make you familiar with some good restaurants, ATMs, money changer and other necessary places you might need during your stay in Thamel.
Day 2: A full day sightseeing tour of Kathmandu valley, the capital city
The very next morning, after breakfast you will leave for a full day sightseeing tour around Kathmandu valley. You can visit the sacred Pashupatinath Temple and Swyambhunath, very ancient and essentially enlisted in UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The biggest Buddhist Stupa at Boudhanath and the fine arts and historical architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square reflecting the ancient Nepalese culture which is the highlights of our guided tour. A visit to Patan City will enchant you with its famous fine arts and historical architecture. On return to your hotel, you will have time to explore the local area, have dinner and perhaps take a leisurely stroll through the famous streets. Finally, day ends with a Authentic Nepalese Dinner in Nepali Cultural Restaurant.
Day 3: Expedition Preparation Day
We spend a day preparing the final documents, gears & equipment check and so on. You can go for final shopping if something is missed before leaving out for the mountain.
Day 4: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding (2,650m/8,692ft)
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 5: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/1,1283ft)
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 6: Rest day for acclimatization (3,440m/1,1283ft)
Short hike to Everest View Hotel & explore Namche.
Day 7: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,850m/12,628ft)
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 8: Trek from Tengboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4,600m/15,088ft)
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight Camping.
Day 9 - 23: Climbing period (Base Camp-Summit Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,343ft) -Base Camp
The climb from Ama Dabalm Base Camp to Camp 1 is easy a trekking trail with only a short section of casual rock scrambling that is 100m in length. It is at a slope of 60º. Along the way you will scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, with no fixed rope in place. You will quickly come to learn that on Ama Dablams Southwest ridge there are not many places to put a tent. So there is some logistics and sharing that is required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two man tents and 6-7 single tents.
The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on the route. You begin the day by scrambling and climbing along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge around several pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters which is considered French 4th class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower you will arrive at Camp 2 on small ledges. This will feel like a real big mountain high camp, high exposure on all sides. Be careful when you go to the toilet.
The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 shifts over to mixed, ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have great views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is now time to traverse the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. Looking up at camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some strong climbers push for the summit from camp two. However, Wongchhu Peak Promotion will always fix camp three before the summit. With that being said it is important to advise that this section of the mountain is at high risk for avalanches. So reducing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it completely is imperative. For clients not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2 we usually spend 6 hours here before starting for summit push. The route from the yellow tower to camp three is almost 55º of slop most of the way.
To summit from camp three and return back down to camp two takes most climbers about 10 hours. Summit day on Ama Dablam is a special one. Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid snow-ice (40º+) are climbed to the side of the Dablam. Once you are next to the Dablam you reach a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) that leads you to one of the world’s finest summits. Here you will be rewarded will the best seat in the house to view the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu come into view.
Day 24: Clean up Base Camp & descend to Tengboche (3,850m/12,628ft)
4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 25: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/1,1283ft)
4-5 hrs tre.. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 26: Trek down to Lukla (2,860m/9,380ft)
5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.
Day 27: Fly back to Kathmandu
After having breakfast we head toward airport for our flights. The terminal building is extremely cold; drinks and snacks are limited. The flight is exciting – once you have taken after off hurtling down into the void. After the plane has missed the hillside below Number Peak and dodged over the lamjura pass , it’s on to Kathmandu. Then you will be picked by Wongchhu Peak Promotion representatives at Domestic airport. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 28: Leisure day at Kathmandu
Leisure day at Kathmandu followed by farewell dinner & celebration. You can ask your guide to take you on a sightseeing trip inside Kathmandu Valley. On this day you can go to the various museums around the valley including the Narayanhiti Museum which earlier used to be the residence of the last king of Nepal. You may also go to the hilltop of Nagarkot. After some sightseeing around the world heritage sites in the valley, you will have a farewell dinner and enjoy with your Nepali friends and guide. You might even make plans for extending your stay for Chitwan jungle safari, rafting activities, and more with your guide.
Day 29: Departure
Finally it’s SEE OFF TIME. You will be picked from Hotel by representatives of Wongchhu Peak Promotion staff and dropped at Tribhuvan International Airport with a hope to see you again.
Includes
- Airport/Hotel transfer in Kathmandu,
- All ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicle in Kathmandu,
- Hotel in Kathmandu for 3 nights pre and 2 nights post on B/B plan on sharing post,
- Full-day Kathmandu Heritage site sightseeing by private tourist vehicle,
- Professional English-speaking tour guide during sightseeing,
- City tour entrance fees of the heritage sites,
- Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking and climbing guide during the trekking and climbing period,
- All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; Kitchen tents, store tents, dining tents, toilet tents, tables chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced Base Camp and high camp,
- Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bars, etc.)
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base camp,
- Food and accommodation during the trek in full board,
- Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner will be served at base camp,
- All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during the expedition for both members and crews,
- Daily weather Report service from Seattle based,
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam,
- Nepal government Royalty and fees,
- One experienced, trained, government-licensed, climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client,
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for all involved staff in trekking and expedition,
- Group emergency equipment and medical supplies,
- Medical consultation services at the base camp,
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, Kitchen boys,
- Equipment allowance and wages for Government Liaison Officers,
- Solar equipment for light and also for charging various electric devices,
- 1 generator at base camp for computers and other electronic devices,
- Headset radios for communication in the mountain,
- Satellite Phones (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Internet at base camp (for personal use on the participants’ charge),
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required,
- Rope fixing costs,
- The heater will be provided at the base camp for heating the dining room,
- Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator will be provided,
- Travel and rescue arrangements,
- Ice fall usage Charge,
- 5 bottles of 3LTR Poisk Oxygen for members,
- Daily Dispatches on www.wppnepal.com,
- Welcome and Farewell dinner with beverages.
Excludes
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from the mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary,
- If required to change from airplane to helicopter to/from Lukla due to weather issues, the additional cost of the helicopter will be shared amongst clients,
- Personal trekking and climbing gear,
- Meals in Kathmandu (except breakfast and farewell dinner),
- Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing,
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, shower, etc.),
- Emergency Medical Evacuation & any medical costs,
- Any other item not listed in the 'Price Includes' section.
Equipments
1.0 Travel Documents
- Valid passport
- Credit/Debit card
- Passport size photo (6 pieces)
- Insurance paper and contact address
- Family contact number
2.0 Upper Body Wear
- Expedition down jacket
- Basecamp down jacket
- Lightweight fleece top
- Wind shirt
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Waterproof shell jacket
- Base layers tops
- Trekking cloths
- Casual wear
3.0 Lower Body Wear
- Thermal bottom base layer (2-3 pcs)
- Fleece trousers (2-3 pcs)
- Gore-Tex pants (1 pcs)
- Mid-weight pants (1-2 pcs)
- Lightweight quick dry trekking pants (2-3 pcs)
- Gaiters for trekking boots
- Down pant Underwear (4-6 pcs)
4.0 Headwear
- Sun cap
- Desert cap
- Balaclava
- Banadana or Buff
- Fleece hat
- Neoprene face mask
- Neck gaiter
- Sunglass
- Ski goggles
5.0 Handwear
- Thin fleece gloves (2 pairs)
- Liner gloves (2 pairs)
- Wind stopper/screen tap gloves (2 pairs)
- Mountaineering gloves with removable liners
- Summit gloves-6000m
6.0 Footwear
- Socks (6 pairs)
- Lightweight shoes/sandals
- Trekking boots
- 6000m mountaineering boots
- Save gaiters
- Down bivvy boots
- Camp boots
- Foot-wearing system
7.0 Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping bag -20°c to -30°c for Base camp
- Down Sleeping Bag -40°c for extreme comfort
- Thermarests Mattress (Cell foam)
- Down Matteres (Inflatable)
- Sleeping bag Liner
- Inflatable Pillow
8.0 Climbing Equipment
- Power Bank
- Pee Bottle
- Altimeter watch
- Pocket Knife
- Walking Stick/Trekking Pole
- Satellite Phone with credit
- Battery
- Headlight 500-700Lumens
- Spare Snow Goggles
- Tape Slings/240cm
- Unlock Carabiner (2pcs)
- Lock Carabiner (3pcs)
- Climbing Helmet
- Summit Down Suit – 6000m
- Jumar / Ascender
- Belay Devices / Figure of 8/ATC guide
- Harness
- Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
- Crampons (fit with boot)/ Packing cover
9.0 Bag packs
- Rucksacks 35 L -50 L
- Duffle Bag 120 L – 150 L (2pcs)
- Laundry / Garbage Bag (Large)
- Water Proof Stuff Sacks / Dry Bag –small/medium / Large (3-4)pcs)
10.0 Sun stuff
- Banana Boat/Nivea Sun Cream (up to -50SPF)
- Lip Guard - 30 to -50 (SPF)
- Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)
- Glaciers Glasses (Uv Protection)
- Moisturizer / Lotion
11.0 Toiletries (Personal)
- Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
- Toothpaste
- Toothbrush
- Soap
- Shampoo
- Towel
- Garbage Bag
12.0 Eating & Drinkings
- 1 ltr. Water Bottle 1/1.5ltr.
- Thermos Mug (Opt.)
- Spoon / Fork (opt.)
- Bowl (opt.)
13.0 Medical / First Aid
- Brufen / Ibuprofens
- Antibiotic
- Diamox
- Paracetamol
- Handy Plaster
- Crack Bandage
- Tincture Iodine
- Ondem
- Cetirizine
- Electrolyte
- Minil 10mg (Palpitation, anxiety)
- Codopar (Headache & chest pain)
- Salbetol 4mg (Breathless)
- Azithromycin 500mg (chronic tonsillitis, fever, nose, throat infection-must take 5 days)
- Flupen 250mg (prevent wound infection)
- Allegra 120/180mg (Allergic tonsil)
- Menstrual Products
14.0 Miscellaneous
- Nail cutter
- Umbrella /Raincoat
- Hot water bag
- Tenacious Tape Repair Kits
- Camera
- GPS Tracker (Recommended)
- Hand & Toe Warmer
Dispatches
Date | Availability | Price | |
---|---|---|---|
Sep 20, 2024 - Oct 13, 2024 | Soldout |
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