Mt. Amadablam Expedition

Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13th March, 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge (right skyline in the photo). Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April–May (before the monsoon) and September–October.

Wongchhu Peak Promotion provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, food along the trek and other individual services required by clients. Wongchhu Peak advises clients to use a personal climbing Sherpa guide (which we will provide) to help you reach the summit. Your personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp I, camp II and camp III with food provisions, fuel and oxygen as well as guide the climber to summit.

Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, our company representative will meet and welcome you to Nepal and then you'll be transferred to your confirmed hotel. Once you finish the check-in procedure, you can rest & relax at the hotel. Later you will be accompained by the office staff for a short tour of Thamel to make you familiar with some good restaurants, ATMs, money changer and other necessary places you might need during your stay in Thamel.

The very next morning, after breakfast you will leave for a full day sightseeing tour around Kathmandu valley. You can visit the sacred Pashupatinath Temple and Swyambhunath, very ancient and essentially enlisted in UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The biggest Buddhist Stupa at Boudhanath and the fine arts and historical architecture of Kathmandu Durbar Square reflecting the ancient Nepalese culture which is the highlights of our guided tour. A visit to Patan City will enchant you with its famous fine arts and historical architecture. On return to your hotel, you will have time to explore the local area, have dinner and perhaps take a leisurely stroll through the famous streets. Finally, day ends with a Authentic Nepalese Dinner in Nepali Cultural Restaurant.

We spend a day preparing the final documents, gears & equipment check and so on. You can go for final shopping if something is missed before leaving out for the mountain.

4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.

5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.

Short hike to Everest View Hotel & explore Namche.

5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.

4-5 hrs  trek. Overnight Camping.

The climb from Ama Dabalm Base Camp to Camp 1 is easy a trekking trail with only a short section of casual rock scrambling that is 100m in length. It is at a slope of 60º. Along the way you will scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, with no fixed rope in place. You will quickly come to learn that on Ama Dablams Southwest ridge there are not many places to put a tent. So there is some logistics and sharing that is required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two man tents and 6-7 single tents.

The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on the route. You begin the day by scrambling and climbing along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge around several pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters which is considered French 4th class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower you will arrive at Camp 2 on small ledges. This will feel like a real big mountain high camp, high exposure on all sides. Be careful when you go to the toilet.

The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 shifts over to mixed, ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have great views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is now time to traverse the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. Looking up at camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some strong climbers push for the summit from camp two. However, Wongchhu Peak Promotion will always fix camp three before the summit. With that being said it is important to advise that this section of the mountain is at high risk for avalanches. So reducing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it completely is imperative. For clients not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2 we usually spend 6 hours here before starting for summit push. The route from the yellow tower to camp three is almost 55º of slop most of the way.

To summit from camp three and return back down to camp two takes most climbers about 10 hours. Summit day on Ama Dablam is a special one. Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid snow-ice (40º+) are climbed to the side of the Dablam. Once you are next to the Dablam you reach a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) that leads you to one of the world’s finest summits. Here you will be rewarded will the best seat in the house to view the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu come into view.

4-5 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge.

4-5 hrs tre.. Overnight in Lodge.

5-6 hrs trek. Overnight in Lodge. 

After having breakfast we head toward airport for our flights. The terminal building is extremely cold; drinks and snacks are limited. The flight is exciting – once you have taken after off hurtling down into the void. After the plane has missed the hillside below Number Peak and dodged over the lamjura pass , it’s on to Kathmandu. Then you will be picked by Wongchhu Peak Promotion representatives at Domestic airport. Overnight in Hotel.

 

Leisure day at Kathmandu followed by farewell dinner & celebration. You can ask your guide to take you on a sightseeing trip inside Kathmandu Valley. On this day you can go to the various museums around the valley including the Narayanhiti Museum which earlier used to be the residence of the last king of Nepal. You may also go to the hilltop of Nagarkot. After some sightseeing around the world heritage sites in the valley, you will have a farewell dinner and enjoy with your Nepali friends and guide. You might even make plans for extending your stay for Chitwan jungle safari, rafting activities, and more with your guide.

Finally it’s SEE OFF TIME. You will be picked from Hotel by representatives of Wongchhu Peak Promotion staff and dropped at Tribhuvan International Airport with a hope to see you again.

  • Airport / Hotel / Airport transfers by private vehicle
  • Domestic flights
  • Ground Transportation
  • Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast
  • Guided Tour of Kathmandu City with expert tour guide and private vehicle
  • Government license holder experienced, climbing & trekking guide (trained in
  • Wilderness First Aid & altitude sickness), porters (1 porter for between 2 trekkers basis), cook, helpers with their food, accommodation, salary, equipment, and accidental insurance, clothing, and medicine
  • Local transportation to and from the starting and ending points of the trek by Tourist bus/Private Car/Van and Flights depends on Clients requirement and budget
  • Tea house/Lodges Accommodation during the trekking
  • Daily Meals for trekking and camping (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • All camping gears (waterproof dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent, etc) with High-quality tents.
  • High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas, etc.
  • Permits for Expedition
  • Group medical supplies (first aid kit will be available)
  • Above the Wongchhu Peak Promotion duffel bag
  • Comprehensive pre-departure information and trip dossiers
  • Welcome/Farewell Nepali Dinner in Kathmandu
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and all Government Taxes
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • If required to change from airplane to helicopter to/from Lukla due to weather issues, the additional cost of the helicopter will be shared amongst clients.
  • Personal trekking and climbing gear
  • Meals in Kathmandu (except breakfast and farewell dinner)
  • Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing season
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, shower, etc.)
  • Emergency Medical Evacuation & any medical costs

Boots, Crampons, Gaiters

  • Light Hiking Boots
  • 8000m Climbing Boots
  • Gaiters
  • Crampons

Climbing Tools

  • Ice Axe
  • Seat Harness
  • Locking Carabineers
  • 2 folding – ski pole

Technical Clothing

  • Polypro or Capaline long underwear (4sets)
  • Pile jacket and pants (pants must have full separating side zips)
  • Gore Tex shells (top and bottoms must have full separating side zips)
  • Down jacket (medium & heavy weight)

Mitts & Gloves

  • Light synthetic gloves (Capaline or polypropylene)
  • Wool (or pile) mitts & Gore-Tex overmitts

Socks

  • Wool or pile socks

Headgear

  • Head lamp (spare bulbs & batteries)
  • Glacier sun glasses
  • Wool or pile hat

Sleeping

  • Sleeping bag (expedition quality) rated -15 &40 f
  • Sleeping pads

Camping

  • Backpack
  • Pee bottle
  • Water bottle
  • Sunscreen (maximum block)
  • Lip sunscreen

Traveling

  • Large duffel bag (provided by Wongchhu Peak)
  • Toiletry bag
  • Travel Clothes
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Small day pack for trekking days

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Trip-Code: WPP-005-ADE
Destination: Nepal
Region: Everest Khumbu
Altitude: 6812 M
Season: Spring/Autumn
Difficulty: Strenuous
Accommodation: Hotel, Tea House & Tent
Duration: 34 Days

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